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March 9, 2005
West Africa Wins Again
American and European expats who have lived in West Africa can occasionally be heard to utter in complete frustration "West Africa Wins Again!". Or "Wawa"! It's a sort of Murphy's Law writ large for the endless, and often bureaucratic, obstacles that can impede every step forward.
I uttered the phrase this week as I spent hours and hours entangled in the bureaucracy of the Ministry of Information.
When I arrived here, I dutifully went to the Minstry with a file of papers that the Ghanaian Embassy in the US had given me (the papers included about $100 worth of passport photos they made me give them). With the papers, they said, I would get my press accreditation.
I had the misfortune of dealing with the "Media Liaison" of the Minstry. He is a rotund man prone to impromptu outbursts filled with insults about journalists. I first encountered him sitting in a dusty office sparsely furnished with worn 1970s office furniture. A big, rusty fan on the wall provided the only movement in the dark room. This man said he'd need time to add his signature to my media pass, and asked me to come back in two hours. I gave him four and a half.
When I returned, my file was undisturbed on his desk. He informed me that I needed to provide him a list of every person I would talk to in Ghana during my stay... and he wanted phone numbers. He also informed me, with a somewhat smug smile, that he was going to have to "charge a fee," though he wasn't ready to say how much that would be.
He instructed me to come back to the office today, and ordered me not to "do any journalism" until I had my accreditation papers.
My driver this week is a police sergeant and seemed to take all of this very seriously, so for once I decided I should obey the law.
I went back to the crumbling Ministry building today armed with just one name and phone number, and wrote it on the handwritten "form" his assistant provided. Mercifully, the man was not in the office, and his assistant looked at my paper, shrugged her shoulders, and handed me my media pass. No mention of the fee. I'm not sure the pass is actually valid, but it satisfied my driver, so I think I'm just this side of legal now.
Posted by Cathryn Poff at March 9, 2005 1:35 PM
Comments
Cath-
Alex and I just read your "blogs," while sitting on our couch in our air conditioned home, in California, eating a bag of Dorito's, watching Maury (previously TiVo'ed, of course), reviewing our new time share brochures (not kidding) and trying to decide whether to next vacation at their latest property in Ghana or go to Atlantic City (kidding).
Wow, cool stuff. I've heard of Africa...once...when Oprah did a show on Ricky Martin's relief efforts. It's near Ireland, right?
Seriously, that's about how ignorant we feel about what you are experiencing now, and are loving hearing your stories. Pleae keep them coming, keep your sense of humor, and know we love you.
xo, Margot & Alex
P.P.S. Hawaii was great and we're not kidding about our new "vacation ownership."
Posted by: Margot & Alex at March 10, 2005 5:08 AM
Very interesting - your descriptions are so realistic we feel like we're in Ghana and participating in your activities! Well, it does seem much toooo hot and humid there but exciting nonetheless. Keep up the informative reports----
Posted by: Nicole at March 10, 2005 8:37 PM
Hi Cathryn,
This all reminds me so much of dealing with the Chinese back in the early 90s. Hurry up, wait, stand in line, come back later . . . Ah, what a great time I had.
I love reading your "blogs" as it takes me back to some of my journey's in Asia. I guess hanging out in a condo in Tahoe is about my speed these days. FYI, the Spring skiing is fantastic. :-)
I miss you and hope you're doing well.
Martin
Posted by: Martin at March 14, 2005 12:23 AM